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From ancient times, the art of hand knitting remained an occupation
for women folk. Other than knitting many crafts are practised today.
Among them are crocheting, making cloth toys and dolls, flower crafts,
shell crafts, woodcraft, candle making, decorative inlay and sculpting.
However, hand Knitting still remains pastime of women folk in many parts
of the world. Originally knitting remained entirely confined to making
socks and women's stockings. Earlier than this the leg and foot coverings
were woven. Now they hand-knit all sort of garments, sweaters, cardigans,
blouse and even skirts.
In 1589, William Lee, a clergyman invented the first knitting machine
in England. After this invention, in the 17th and 18th centuries the
art of knitting was gradually taken over by guild organised cottage
industry. Interestingly, the basic technology of the modern day knitting
machines is similar to Lee's machine. Even the full-fashioned machine
invented in 1864 by William Cotton of Leicestershire, England used the
same bearded-spring needle, which was part of the original model of
Lee.
In the 19th century power was applied to the knitting machines and simultaneously
circular-knitting machines appeared on the scene. Women's stocking when
knitted on original machines were a straight knitted tube, because stitches
could not be added or dropped on circular knitting machine. So these
products were known as hosiery. The word hosiery is derived from the
old English hose, which means a covering for the leg. Now seamless stockings
are knitted even on circular machines, developed in the mid-19th century.
To start with cotton, wool, silk and later rayon yarns were used for
making hosiery, but with the emergence of nylon in the 1940s women preferred
nylon hose, because they could be permanently formed into the desired
shape by heating. The use of nylon also improved the fit of hosiery
due to stretchability of nylon fabrics.
Subsequently, in Great Britain, hosiery came to be associated with all
types of machine-knit garments, now called knitwear. In United States
they still call stockings, socks, panty hose, and tights as hosiery
products. Between 1880 to 1910 knitwear was mainly a female fashion,
later knitted pullovers, cardigans, skirts, men's underwear, sportswear
and swimwear became popular. Developments in the 20th century increased
the production speeds of the machines and offered wider choice to pattern
the knitted fabrics. Now computer controlled knitting machines have
come on the scene, which are highly versatile. Knitted garments have
now become every day dress.
J.N.Vohra
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